Whatever you do, make sure you get to La Gazetta before their current dinner menu changes. Don't worry, if you can't reserve in time, I'm sure the next menu will be equally intriguing, and then you can comment about it and tell me what I missed. Touché.
This was my second visit - you can read my more effusive October 2010 reactions here - and the restaurant continues with its dinner option of 5 (39€) or 7 (52€) dishes - throw caution to the wind and go for the larger menu - at that price, you won't be disappointed. Have a look:
The large scallop in its shell smothered in lentils got the proceedings off to a nice start - why don't we see that combination more often, as it definitely works. Mackerel is not much my cup of tea, no matter how prepared, but the second dish proved to be a fascinating experiment. The pistou de celeri was more complex than it looked, simplicity at first glance - a tepee-like construction of steamed brocoli hiding a magical concoction of apricots, vinegar, and pistachio. Chef Petter Nilsson clearly hit his stride by the main courses, a nice slab of langoustine meat with grilled pear and white turnip, followed by slightly cooked beef and endives (for Co.) and lotte and endives (for myself)- perfectly cooked and memorable. (Co. had to wince when she overhead the young foreign woman at the nearby table send the beef back as too rare - I thought I heard chef Nilsson scream 'Sacre bloody bleu' from the kitchen, but maybe I just imagined it.) Those great heights were tempered by the two more subtle, but equally pleasing dishes that rounded out the evening.
Couldn't resist the Rayos Uva 2009 Rioja (31€), which was a preferred wine of the moment on the previous menu.
La Gaz's lunch menu bears a decidedly different look, one that is more tapas oriented (16€, with some supplements), along with an intriguing pizza margherita. Definitely worth checking out.
In short, two thumbs way up for this second visit to La Gazzetta, which continues to enchant with imaginative dishes.
LA GAZZETTA
29, Rue de Cotte
75012 Paris
tel. 01 43 47 47 05
Website
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