As I had done my homework before arrival, I knew not to expect much from the carte, and true to expectation, beyond price and number of dishes, there was ... nothing.
Co. and I slummed it, opting for the Louis en 6 temps formule at 48€ a pop. Throw in an intriguing 3-part mise-en-bouche and a quartet of end-of-meal patisseries, one does not leave Louis wanting for more.
|Mise en bouche - a merangue croustillant with mustard, a green brioche, and although I can't remember what was the third, it was without doubt the tastiest|
|Temps 1 - a foie gras and bouillon de moules concoction that belied the chef's Breton origins|
|Temps 2 - Co.'s boeuf tartare with wasabi (and her hands)|
|Shying away from beef, my alternative was an amazing haddock and caviar dish|
|Temps 3 - an original take on Asian noodles - its bouquet enveloping a hefty langoustine, with raspberry garnish|
|Temps 4 - the photo doesn't do justice to this tender vollaile dish with girolles - probably the tastiest dish of the meal|
|Temps 5 - not that the meal wasn't copious enough, but this 'pre-dessert,' albeit very nice, wasn't much of a dish|
|Temps 6 - oh yeah, that's what I'm talkin' about - just because it's summer doesn't mean we have to limit ourselves to fruit; this chocolate mi-cuit with avocado ice cream and chocolate flakes left me wanting another one, now.|
No photo for the patisseries at the end - two financiers au poire and a couple fondant chocolates. This was a great meal, with flavors spanning various parts of the globe. The 48€ menu -or if you want, 62€ for 8 dishes - is a bargain and there were some reasonably priced, well-selected wines on the list, including the 37€ Chinon that accompanied our meal. This is one we'll definitely be revisiting, although I highly doubt we'll have much luck with the empty table next to us in the future - once word gets out - or at least further than it has to date - get ready to have to reserve weeks in advance.
LOUIS - Stéphane Pitré
23 rue de la Victoire
tel. 01 55 07 86 52
As an inane postcript, as a baseball fan, and even more specifically, a Baltimore Orioles fan, I couldn't help thinking of O's Mexican-born starting pitcher Miguel Gonzalez every time I glanced upon M. Pitré work his kitchen. I don't know if anyone has ever seen the two in the same room at the same time, but they are both aces in my book.
|The baseball player|